A Journey back to the time
of the Moors and the Christian Kings.
La Alcazaba de Antequera
Prologue:
The medieval town of Antequera with its many churches, convents and palaces, is overlooked by an impressive castle "La Alcazaba Papabellotas", a historic treasure of Andalucía, which dates back to the Bronze age more then 5000 years ago. You can find nearby, the prehistoric burial grounds the Dolmens of Menga, Viera and Romeral, representing the largest and best preserved megalithic structures in Europe, and in 2016 were declared a UNESCO World Heritage.
Antequera throughout the centuries played an important roll because of its geographical location. The Romans called the settlement "Anticaria" (ancient) and the Moors modified the name to "Medina Antaquira".
Antequera today is a modern town, it is the largest municipality in the Málaga Province and is approx. 47 km from the Costa del Sol. It is located at the foothills of the famous Karst mountains of Sierra del Torcal, and the impressive silhouette of the Lovers Rock "La Peña de los Enamorados", looking out onto the vast fertile plains of crop fields and olive groves.
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| Villanueva de la Concepción, Nature Reserve "El Torcal" |
Directions:
- We opted for the more scenic route from Málaga A7 to Almogía A 7075 - Villanueva de la Concepción - Torcal and onto Antequera A 343.
- It takes approx. 1h25 min./70 km.
- At Antequera A 343 we turned right just before the Restaurant El Mirador de Antequera, which is worth stopping at because of its fantastic views over the city.
- Drive down Calle Jesus and bear right onto Cuesta Caldereros, than sharp right onto Calle Rastro, which takes you uphill. We stopped near the main entrance of the castle, but you find a parking place in Calle Saeta or in Calle Virgin del Carmen, which is below the castle.
- La Alcazaba contact information 951 700 737
The faster route would be on the motorway Málaga A7 - Sevilla A 45.
In Antequera turn onto A7282 via Dolmen de Menga to La Alcazaba.
It takes approx. 45 min/53 km from Málaga to Antequera.
We stopped briefly at a viewpoint (Mirador del Alcazaba) in Calle Jesus.
From here you look onto the castle from the south.
Opposite the main entrance of the castle "Arco de los Gigantes" you find the viewpoint
"Mirador de los Almenillas".
Fantastic panoramic views over the city and towards the plains in the north.
In the centre the church "La Colegiata de San Sebastiàn" Its construction began in 1548 and was greatly modified in 1692 when the towns "Insigne Colegial" was moved there.
On the right side the iconic rock "La Peña de los Enamorados"
The main gate to the castle "Arco de los Gigantes".
Arco de los Gigantes the gate of giants dates back to 1585.
It was named for the monumental sculpture of Hercules and two robed figures which once supported it. They can be seen now in the city museum.
As soon as you enter through the gate, you hear music which gives you a sense that you are stepping back into the Arabic times of "Al Andaluz".
At the ticket office you will be issued with a map and an audio-guide.
The arrow pointing you towards the actual castle.
Below you see some ancient mill stones.
We stand here at the viewpoint Mirador de Michael Hoskin, which you find near the souvenir shop and the main entrance.
This square was named in honor of the archeoastronomer Michael Hoskin, who played an important roll in the research into the Dolmens, which lead to the declaration as a
World Heritage site.
We followed the instruction of the voice on the phone and followed a path upwards passed
The Royal Collegiate Church.
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| The church "La Real Colegiata de Santa María" |
A view past the bell tower and towards the north east.
In the distance, the silhouette of the 880 m limestone rock the Lovers Leap "La Peña de los Enamorados". Legend has it that, (in a case of forbidden love), a beautiful Muslim girl and a handsome Christian man jumped to their death as they were pursued by Moorish soldiers.
The steps lead us through a gate Puerta Cristiana
The Christian gate was built in the 16th century, it gave access to the area inhabited by Christian nobles and formed part of the inner defensive ring of the castle.
Walking slowly up the pathway with the audio-guide to our ear and surrounded by mystical music, we heard a lovely female voice telling us the historical facts, and a dark male voice impersonating Prince Don Fernando, as he first stepped foot into the castle in 1410 after it was conquered from the Moors.
A view back
A view over the gardens and towards the Bell tower (nicknamed "Papabellotas") and the Keep
"Torre del Homenaje".
On either sides we noticed some ruins.
Edificación Tardaoromana (Late Roman building)
Some date back to the late roman time of the 6th - 7th century.
You also able to see remaining walls of a once beautiful mosque and a water reserve.
We come to a large center square which gives access to the different parts of the fortress and was originally used as barracks for troops.
"Patio de Armas"
On the other side of the square the white tower "Torre Blanca".
A 6 meter deep 3 meter wide hole.
Called "Mazmorra" which used to be the dungeons.
Thereafter we followed some the steps upwards and inside the Keep
"Torre del Homenaje".
As we looked over the wall we were presented with
a panoramic view over Antequera and far beyond.
This view is over the square "Patio de Armas".
Some wooden stairs lead you towards the entrance and the upper part of the wall.
Another view across the town before we enter the fortress.
Torre del Homenaje, the Bell tower and the Keep
The L shaped fortress dates back to the Moorish (Nasarid) period of Antequera (approx 12th century) standing on Roman ruins which can be seen in some of the constructions. After ongoing fighting between the Arabs and the Christians it was badly damaged and thereafter newly fortified. In the mid 13th century due to its location, Antequera became an important strategic border between the now Christian towns like Sevilla and Jaen, and the Granada Nasarid kingdom. Finally in 1410, Infante Don Fernando (he was also known as the one from Antequera) defeated the Arabs.
It was here that Price Don Fernando commemorated taking Antequera
A well used chair.
The pendulum of the clock "Papabellotas"
A belfry was added in 1582 which was to house the largest bell in the city. It got the name "Papabellota" because the crown raised the funds to pay for it, by selling cork forests to pay for the tower and the bell. The sound of the bell was primary used to mark the time, specifically to call the faithful to Prayers and to tell farmers when to irrigate their fields.
A view north/east
From this window we look south and towards the nature reserve of
Parque Natural "El Torcal"
We have reached the top, and the 360º panoramic views are magnificent.
Below us the square "Patio de Armas" and across the White tower "Torre Blanca" and "Torre del Quiebro".
A view south and the road we came on, A 7075
Birdseye view of Antequera.
To reach the entrance of Torre Blanco you have to walk along the top of the wall.
A view across to the Torre del Homenaje and the Bell tower "Papabellotas".
Torre Blanca the white tower.
The white tower "Torre Blanco" is known for its perfectly crafted masonry work. This square tower dates back to the Nasari dynasty (1230 - 1492, ruled by the Emirate of Granada). It is on two levels, the lower one was used for defence, while the upper floor was used as living quarters. Consisting of five rooms, the central area leads to 2 large rectangular bedrooms with balconies and 2 smaller rooms.
With the audio device by our ear, we enter into the mystical and crucial times of 1410 when the Christian forces from the north, finally reconquered Antequera from the Moors.
A voice impersonating Infante Don Fernando speaks of the time when he first stepped foot into the castle. He was taken in by the splendor and architectural artwork he encountered.
From the main quarter we look east out the window, and towards the Lovers rock "La Peña de los Enamorados".
From here, we notice the L shaped layout of the Torre del Homenaje, and the pyramidal spire crown of the Muslim tower that houses the large bell and clock. The belfry was added in 1582.
A view south and towards the mountains.
Looking down onto the Barbican.
The Torre Blanco is connected with the Torre del Quiebro, which was demolished in 1510 by order of the Govenor, but after recent archaeological work it was rebuilt.
Atop the tower.
360º panoramic views are absolutely stunning.
At this point we look across to the 5 cornered tower "Torre de Homenaje".
In the distance the lovers rock "La Peña de los Enamorados".
Below us the ruins of the ancient mosque and water reservoir.
This information board showing you the layout of the mosque.
The Moorish mosque "Medina Antequera", a rectangle building facing towards the south/east with a tower minaret on its northern corner. As seen on the drawing a well can be found in the square.
After the taking of the city on the 1st October 1410, the temple was used to celebrate the first mass by members of the clergy and noblemen of the crown, that accompanied prince Don Fernando.
Information taken from board.
The Roman tombs
From here we walk up to the outer walls the "Barbicans".
The Barbicans along with the tower known as the "hinge" was restored in the year 2000. The tower connects the outer wall which protects the inhabitants.
From here we walk back to the Royal Collegiate Church
"La Real Colegiata de Santa María"
A statue of Pedro Espinosa (1578 - 1650) a poet, and Spanish Baroque anthologist and a member of the Antequeran-Granada school of the golden age.
The Royal Collegiate Church was built in 1514 - 1550 and it is considered as the first Renaissance style church erected in Andalucia. It is a quite grandiose piece of architectural building, because of its dimensions. Started up in late Italian Gothic style but finished more in the Reconnaissance style. The well preserved facade was built entirely in ashlar stone.
Today you won't see many ornamental and altarpieces, because it is used for concerts and exhibitions.
When you enter the church you notice the grandness. Fascinating are the wall paintings in Mannerism style and the wood carved ceiling in Mudejar style.
The somehow impressive "Tarasca" half serpent half lady which is used in the "Corpus Christi" processions.
An information board tells you the meaning behind the Tarasca.
From the church yard we look down to the excavation of a former Roman Bath
The viewpoint "Mirador de las Termas" overlooks the roman bath of "Antikaria", the size of it gives you some idea of the importance of the settlement.
To the right of the Roman Thermals of Santa Maria you will see the remains of the unfinished foundations of the first site of the ambulatory of the Royal Collegiate Church.
After, having taken in some of Antequeras history, we walked down into town. There you can find many restaurants, which offer a wide range of traditional dishes,the best known being "Porras", a cold soup with bread and tomato or simple Tapas.
If you do want to learn more about Antequeras history the Municipal Museum of Antequera is well worth visiting.
How to get to Antequera
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