Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Archidona

 with its unique Baroque style octagonal square
 "Plaza Ochavada"
The square "Plaza Ochavada"
Archidona, a most enchanting town, in the centre of Andalucía in the north/east of Málaga province,  on the border with Granada province. Just approximately 50 km from Málaga and 20 km from Antequera the town of Archidona nestles in the foothills of Sierra Gracia at a height of 666 m in the comarca (county) Nororma.
The main characteristics are its convents and churches, and this religious architecture has embossed Archidona. It is best known for its 18th century octagonal shaped square "Plaza Ochavada", and high above the town, the remains of a castle with its Hermitage "Ermita de la Virgen de Gracia".



Archidona has a long history, Prehistoric traces were found in the caves of Sierra Conjuro near by, the Phoenician were the first civilized settlers, followed by the Romans who called it Arx Domina. Then the Arabs fortified the town (Medina Arxiduna) with a castle as its focal point.
In the times of "Al-Andalus",  Archidona was the main town in the region and even became the capital of Málaga. In 756 Abd al-RahmanI was proclaimed the first emir of "Al-Andalus" in Archidona on March 16. 
It was not until 1462 that the Christian troops succeeded in recapturing the town from the Moors.  In the 16th century Archidona began to expand in the area beneath the castle walls and it was known as Villa Baja.
In 1531 the Convent Santo Domingo was established and many others followed, from then on, Archidona became an important town for religious worship and studies. 
Because of Archidonas long and eventful history and its inhabitants desire to preserve its artistic heritage, in 1980 Archidona was declared a Village of Historical and Artistic Importance.

Sancutary "Ermita de la Virgen de Gracia"
          Directions:
  • From Málaga take the A-7 onto  A-45 and then A-92M  towards Granada. 
  • After about 35 minutes you see the turn off 11 towards Archidona A - 7202. 
  • Archidona is situated towards the left side of the motorway and just 10 minutes drive from here.
  • We returned via Antequera  A-92  on to Málaga A - 45.

Often when you drive through the Andalusian countryside, you might see the Osborne Bull (Toro) up on a hill. It has become the emblem of Andalucía.



As we neared the town of Archidona the first thing we noticed, was a large white building of "Ermita de la Virgen de Gracia" which sits on a hill overlooking the town.



The view of the park (Parque Periurbano de Sierra de Gracia).
                                                                            


The road which leads up to the Sanctuary of Ermita de la Virgin de Gracia is very steep and therefore we would recommend to leave the car at the bottom and walk up. By doing this, you have an enjoyable panoramic and peaceful walk through the peri-urban park with its various foot paths.
    


Here you see some of the well preserved fortifications.


The gate of the sun "La Puerta del Sol"open towards the east, is one of two entrances to the ancient walled Andalusian Arsiduna, erected on the top of Cerro de Gracia. The restored gate, shows an elbow transit and a second floor, and a pointed horseshoe arch. From this area you have  a good perspective of the citadel that crowns the hill, and the current Sanctuary of Our Lady of  Grace, which includes much of the structure of the former medieval mosque. In the same complex there is the Interpretation Center of Mozarabic Culture. 
(This was copied from the information board).


The tower La Puerta del Sol with its entrance from the east side.


The panoramic views from on top of the fortified walls are just stunning.



Overlooking the countryside towards the east.



At the summit (943 m) there is the Sanctuary "Ermita de la Virgen de Gracia" and the ruins of the castle.


On the way up we noticed various information boards. 



From the viewpoint (Mirador) you can enjoy a birds-eye view of the town of Archidona. You are able to make out the baroque square Plaza Ochavada for which Archidona is famous, and the building of the old Pias School, among its most famous students was Blas Infante who is known as the father of modern Andalucía.




And also here, we can relax or encourage our senses by contemplating the wealth of nuances in the natural landscape. From the challenging heights of the Gracia Mountains, the natural crown of the Archidona Basin, of which Gracia Hill is one of its jewels, to the undulating surface of the area of Las Lagunillas, borderd by the Hoz del Aroyo Marin (Gully of the Marin Stream), also known as Arroyo del Ciervo. in the distance, the wide and fertile Valley of Archidona, and on the horizon, the Peña de los Enamorados (Lovers Peak), where, according to legend, the daughter of the Arabian governor of Archidona died together with her lover.
(This was copied from the information board).



This information board shows you an aerial picture of the walled city of Archidona with the castle at its center point.


On clear days you are able to see on the horizon the Sierra Chimenea and the nature reserve of El Torcal.


The site of the sanctuary is built on the ruin of a Moorish Mosque.





The image of Nuestra Señora de Gracia, Patron Saint of Archidona.



After you walk through the main gate you enter a half-portico courtyard from the 18th century. The open side is like a panoramic window overlooking the town far below and across the rolling countryside. 



At the far end a large door leads you into the chapel.
The church tower is a former minaret.



When you walk slowly around inside the church, you notice that this place of worship was adapted throughout various epochs and cultures. The horseshoe arches resemble an Arabic Mosque, and its shaft columns - possibly are of Roman origin.



The Baptismal font is made of Sevillan glazed pottery from the late 
15th century.



Opulently decorated altar with its center image of 
"Nuestra Señora de Gracia".



On the right-hand side a magnificent side altar of shining silver.




Rosemarie bushes in bloom line the pathway.



 The hermitage Ermita del Santo Cristo dating back to the 18th century, standing halfway up the hill.



This place is a mandatory stop on the pilgrimage to the Santuario de la Virgin de Gracia, Patron Saint of Archidona, celebrated on Aug. 15th.



Having only seen Archidona from the birds-eye perspective, we decided to take a closer look at the town itself. We left the car at the entry to the town and walked along Calle Virgin de Gracia. 

Our first stop was Plaza de la Victoria.
"Blas Infante"

Plaza de la Victoria
is the heart of the village's every day life. You find three important buildings overlooking the square, the town hall (el Ayuntamiento) and the old public granary  or La Chilla, with its 
stone Baroque facade, and the church of "Iglesia de la Victoria"




The church, Iglesia de la Victoria





From the square we walked along Calle Carrera. 
Archidona has long main streets and narrow side roads and alleyways. 



Iglesia de Jesús Nazareno y Escuela Pías


The church of  "Iglesia de Jesús Nazareno"


The school, Escuelas Pías is a monumental building and was built in the second half of the 18th century. College of the Piarists of Archidona (1757 - 1951). Its continuity as teaching centre makes it one of the oldest colleges in the province of Málaga. Now, the building houses the Secondary School "Luis Barahona de Soto" 
Between 1896 and 1899 Blas Infante, Padre de la Patria Andalucía was a student of this college.



At the Plaza de la Iglesia you find the church of Iglesia Santa Ana.
The building of this Gothic-style church began in the 16th century.


A beautiful old House set in a picturesque square.


From Calle Carrera near the Escuela de Pías we walked through a narrow alley and we reached Calle Fuentenueva. 


From there we walked on to Calle San Roque 



 Then along Calle Salazar which lead us to the square 
"Plaza Ochavada".  


You enter the square through a large arch from any side.


This historic square is a center point for many festival activities of the year.
Until 1956 bullfights were often held within this octagonal enclosure.


The architecture is a feast for the eyes.


Plaza Ochavada is considered one of the most beautiful squares in all of Spain and a real gem of Andalusian urban development of the 18th century. This Baroque style square was built in 1756 by the local master builder Antoño González Sevillano, and Francisco Astorga Frías, whose idea it was to use primarily French architectural and Mudejar tradition, to build an octagonal square, it was quite unique in its day. The inside of the square combines redbrick and whitewashed walls, quintessential in local villages.  


After taking in so much history we found a very nice welcoming restaurant in Calle Nueva.


 Restaurante Central is a traditional restaurant serving Tapas and Ál la carte with lots of local dishes on the menu. Just ask the helpful staff for the specialties.


Wild mushrooms with fried eggs (Setas con huevos fritos) 
was just one of the delicious dishes we had.


In Calle Nueva you find "Convento de las Minimas" 


The convent of Jesus Maria, formed by the nuns known as the Minimas of the Order of San Francisco 


Its construction dates back to the 17th to 18th centuries and its tower is probably the work of Francisco de Astorga and Antonio Gonzalez, master builders of the Plaza Ochavada. The bricks and the ceramic decorations evoke the (Moorish) Mudejar style.
(This was copied from the information board).


We are back at Plaza de la Victoria


A last look at Archidona and the Sierra de Gracia 


It was certainly a memorable trip and we are sure that we will be back soon.

How to get to Archidona


Related links: History of Archidona        
                             




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