Where Griffon Vultures patrol the sky
Prologue:
The limestone rock formation of Sierra Crestellina is located between the Sierra Bermeja to the east and the Serranía de Ronda to the north, Málaga Province. To the west the Genal valley and the nature reserve Los Arcornocales and to the south the Campo de Gibraltar, Cádiz Province.
The village of Casares lays in the foothills to the south, and when you drive along side the western slopes of Sierra Crestellina, it takes you to the village of Gaucín.
This small protected natural area is highly interesting due to its topography, its limestone rock and the inaccessible peaks. The rugged but lush terrain is a a hidden treat for nature lovers and hikers alike. It is also one of the most important areas in Málaga province where the Griffon Vultures are found and where you can witness these majestic birds close up as they fly weightless in the sky around you.
This small protected natural area is highly interesting due to its topography, its limestone rock and the inaccessible peaks. The rugged but lush terrain is a a hidden treat for nature lovers and hikers alike. It is also one of the most important areas in Málaga province where the Griffon Vultures are found and where you can witness these majestic birds close up as they fly weightless in the sky around you.
Directions:
- Coming from Marbella you have two options, you can take the Toll road Ap-7 or exit to A-7 towards San Pedro de Alcántara, Estepona, Algeciras.
- In Estepona we take the motorway exit 153 for A-7 towards Algeciras, Cádiz.
- At the roundabout take the 3rd exit Pista Colada de los Molinos a E, after 5,2 km you reach a crossroad, turn right onto Ma-8300.
- We started the hike opposite and 50 m up from the Restaurant Laura.
- It is moderate, circular route of 8.9 km and we took 5 h 30 min. with a few stops.
On our way from Estepona to Casares we stopped briefly at the Viewpoint Peñas Blancas. From here we had a good view towards the Sierra Bermeja and the coast of Estepona.
Our hike starts opposite and 50 meters up from the Restaurant Laura .
An information board indicates the starting point of the hike route (Sendero).
Our destination the viewpoint of Mirador de Castillón.
Part of the route is on a concreted road leading through a lush valley.
This view takes you west across the valley.
The village of Casares is built on a cliff with it's castle at its highest point.
The road gradually climbs uphill.
A large eucalyptus tree obscures the view of the Sierra Crestellina.
The view south towards Campo de Gibraltar.
Many wild flowers line the route in springtime.
What an idyllic setting!
A small farm deep down in the valley.
towards the Sierra Crestellina.
The view north along the valley.
Two horses came to greet us as we pass their way.
Looking up and towards the right we notice a bizarre rock formation.
A large cork oak (Alcornoque), which has its bark (cork) recently removed.
The cork is pealed off every 9-12 years.
Cork oak, Alcornoque (Quertcus super)
A black pine (pinus nigra) full with cones.
We are now approaching the end of the valley of Arroyo del Albarrán .
A pole with white, red, green stripes indicates that you are on the right track.
But when you see the crossed stripes, this is not the official route.
As we now have reached the end of the valley
we see ahead the Serranía de Ronda.
The white villages of Jubrique to the right and Algatocín to the left are visible.
Towards the east you see the Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja.
Birds of prey, including the Griffon vultures (Buitre leonado), are commonly seen in this area of Sierra Bermeja and Sierra Crestellina as well as Sierra del Hacho/Gaucin.
We reached a cross road from where we turned left uphill towards the nature reserve of Sierra Crestellina and the Sierra Crestellina Refugio (SL 1).
From here it is 16,9 km to the village of Genalguacil and 3,6 km to the village of Casares, our starting point.
Around us we noticed that trees have been cut and a clearing has been created, which gave us a good view along the valley and towards the
Campo de Gibraltar.
The Sierra Crestellina with its rugged crested peak was declared in 1989 as a protected natural area.
As far as the eye can see the forested area of Serrania de Ronda.
On the horizon you can just make out the limestone peaks of
Sierra de Grazalema.
Laurel-leave cistus is an evergreen shrub native to the western Mediterranean, white with yellow centre flowers of 4,5 - 5 cm in diameter.
Its leaves are laurel like.
Rock-rose or Laurel-leave cistus (Cistus laurifolius) |
Poppy, Amapola silvestre, (Papaver rhoeas) |
Purple Jerusalem Sage, Matagallo (Phlomis purpurea) |
Because of recent ground clearing and pruning of trees,
young trees are able to sprout.
The trail follows along the side of the mountain.
A beautiful large purple Iris standing amidst the undergrowth.
Spanish Iris, (Iris xiphinum) |
Deadly carrot, Zumillo (Thapsia villosa) |
We look back to where we came from.
We stroll leisurely along the trail south.
To the right of us, the rugged terrain of Crestellina.
High above and near the clouds, the circling vultures.
This rugged terrain is the domain of the Griffon vultures.
Griffon vulture (Buitre leonado) |
This view takes you towards the coast and Campo de Gibraltar.
And this one across the valley and towards the Sierra Bermeja.
In the midst of the undergrowth and between the rocks
a herd of goats are grazing happily.
Their milk produces a fabulous cheese which can be bought in the cheese shop near the crossroad from Casares to Gaucín.
A lonely road and
It is such a pleasure to walk along this trail, especially in springtime.
Looking back.
The trail is leading us south.
We see the village of Casares seemingly perched on a rock.
From here we look back across the valley.
As we come closer to the Mirador
we have a better view of the coastline.
The sign is indicating to us that it is 300 meters to the viewpoint (Mirador).
A narrow footpath leads us to the viewpoint.
Surrounded by the rugged terrain.
Dwarf fan palms growing between the rocks.
Green and white stripes painted on a rock, tells you that you are on the right track.
Just before the Mirador you find a sign informing you about the
Griffon vultures.
The Griffon vulture (el Buitre Leonado)
Welcome to the privileged sight.
Respect and contribute towards the conservation.
This rocky terrain of limestone rock is one of the most important location in the province of Málaga where you can find the Griffon Vultures (Buitre Leondo). From the strategic point of observation it is not difficult to contemplate these majestic birds in flight. The powerful wingspan of more than 2.50 m permits them to gain height with hardly any wing movements. These scavengers are vital for a healthy environment because they clean the area of cadavers which can cause infections for other animals.
From the middle of the 20th century they suffered drastic recline, especially through use of poisons. Luckily the population is recovering slowly again but it still needs certain protection.
Here we are at last.
The Mirador Castillón.
The 360º panoramic views are just stunning.
Above you see the view south, towards Campo de Gibraltar.
Below you see the view north, Sierra Crestellina to the left and Sierra Bermeja to the right.
Birdseye view of Casares.
From here you look down towards the sport centre of Casares, as well as the crossroads of Casares - Manilva - Gaucín.
In the distant haze the Rock of Gibraltar and the African coast.
As we get our breath back we soak in the views.
A perfect spot to have a snack.
It is certainly an idyllic setting.
And it makes a perfect spot for a picnic.
We retrace the route back to the sign that points us towards the Refugio.
Here you find some picnic tables.
Leaving the Refugio we follow a steep track down towards the village.
This is a quick route down.
But it is certainly more challenging.
A quick gaze across the valley and then we carry on.
On a large rock we rest our weary knees
and look towards our final destination.
This part of the walk, although quite difficult, is very interesting because of the variety of rocks that you come across.
In crevices of the rocks you find succulents.
A last look up towards Sierra Crestellina.
Nearly at the bottom now.
We follow the path along a fence.
The sign pointing back from where we came.
Coming to the main road
we turn left towards the village.
Springtime is certainly the best time to visit Sierra Crestellina nature area. It is such a pleasure to see the blooming countryside with its variety of wild flowers.
How to get to Casares
Map of the hike
Wikiloc: Sierra Crestellina, Casares |
Related link: Natural Area Sierra Crestellina
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