A Hike up to the limestone plateau of
"El Torcal de Sierra de la Utrera"
Prologue:
Many times we have walked through the gorge "El Canuto de la Utrera", but we were always intrigued as to what we would find on the rocky terrain which lays above the gorge. This karstic landscape between the villages of Manilva and Casares reminds you of "El Torcal" by Antequera which is famous for its unique rock formations.
Torcal de Sierra de la Utrera is less visited, mainly due to there are no official way signs to show you the way up to the top nor around the rocky terrain. At the higher altitude the panoramic views are stunning and certainly worth all the effort. It is fascinating to see how the natural elements have changed the limestone rock into unique formations over time.
This area has been inhabited for hundreds of thousands of years (1st by Neanderthals and after the Homo sapiens), and is now a natural treasure which deserves to be protected.
We recommend highly a walk through the gorge, which takes you back to the Jurassic period and onto the nearby Roman baths of "Baños de la Hedionda". It was said that the Roman Emperor "Caesar" had them built, and used these sulphurous waters to heal his ailments.
Note: We would advice only experienced hikers with good orientation skills to venture up the rocky terrain, because there are very few way signs nor proper footpaths and you can easily get lost amongst the rocks and vegetation.
The A-377 is a very scenic country road which heads towards the villages of Casares and Gaucin. As you reach higher ground the panoramic views are impressive and often
you will see grazing cows in the meadows.
Directions:
- When coming from Marbella head south on the A-7 in the direction of Algeciras/Cádiz.
- After approx. 30 minutes you reach Sabanillas, take the 1st exit at the roundabout (Supermarket Lidl km 145) towards Camino de Baños.
- After approx. 4km/8 minutes you reach the motorway bridge there you take sharp turn left uphill.
- Follow the road past a large quarry then turn right onto A-377 in direction north towards Casares.
- After about 3km take a right turn towards some farm houses. This road leads you towards the beginning of a canyon "Canuto de la Utrera".
- Here, you can park your car.
- The Hike approx. 3km, altitude difference covered of about 70 meters to 280 meters above sea-level.
Shortly after you leave the road A-377, you find a notice board explaining to you the route through the gorge El Canuto de la Utrera and towards the Roman Baths at the other end.
The following information was taken from the board.
La Sierra de la Utrera is one of the most unusual landmarks in the extreme west of the province of Málaga, bordering on the rugged landscape of the Serranía de Ronda and the gentle coastal planes which stretch towards Gibraltar.
The terrain is made up of small but fascinating karstic formations, the southernmost of their kind in Europe, crossed by three enclosed valleys running parallel to the coast, which are known as "canutos". These valleys with their vertical sides, apart from cresting beautiful scenery, are a favourite resting area for numerous protected bird species including Bonelli eagles and Egyptian vultures.
Apart from the intrinsic natural beauty of the karst landscape of the Sierra, it is also important to highlight the wealth of the cultural history to be found in this corner of the municipality of Casares. Of particular note is the rich paleontological heritage with findings of considerable numbers of fossils covering the periods from the Jurassic to the Pliocene. There are also remains showing human habitation in the area since the dawn of history, which can be seen by the numerous cave dwellings, most notable the Gran Duque, which go back to the Roman times, and probably the Iberian period, the water mills for girding grain on the Arroyo del Albarrán which date back to the Moorish period, and the most well known of all, the Baños de la Hedionda bath, whose sulphurous waters have been enjoyed by man since time immemorial, and which have come to be recognized as a cultural site of great significance.
I mentioned earlier in the prologue, that the track to the top is not sign posted,
we found a dark brown trail near the crossroad, which leads steep uphill.
The footpath was well used and not too difficult to follow.
A view across the farm land below.
The footpath zigzags up hill.
The air is filled with sweet scent of the Broom or Genista bushes.
The hillside is covered with the purple Rock Rose bushes and the yellow Broom.
 |
| Rockrose, Jara blanca (Cistus albidus) |
Steadily we climb upwards.
Faded blue paint on a rock, a welcoming way-sign.
Between the rocks you find dwarf fan palms.
| Mediterranean Dwarf palm, Palmera enana (Chamaerops humilis) |
Also called European Fan palm is a shrub like cluster palm and the northernmost naturally occurring palm in the world and the only native one to the Iberian peninsula and the Balearic. It is a very hardy slow growing palm (2-5m), drought tolerant and can withstand cold temperatures (up to -12ºC of the high elevations of the Sierras of Southern Spain and the Atlas mountains/Morocco), but does prefers hot summers.
Ever so often we stop and turn around to admire the panoramic views.
Below us to the left is the entrance of the gorge.
The top does not seem far away now.
The higher we walk, the smaller and more distant the land below us gets.
A birds eye view of the farm and the road we came on.
The photo below is zoomed in.
We try to follow the blue markings.
A view towards the west.
A lonely tree high up on a rock.
A view across the rock face.
We are near the summit now!
Below us the road we came on.
Another manmade way sign, piled up rocks.
This giant is not manmade, a tower of rocks piled up like building blocks.
After the climb we have deserved a well earned pause.
The panorama is certainly worth all the effort.
We find ourselves on a high plateau of the Sierra de la Utrera,
A view south/west and towards the Campo de Gibraltar.
The wild olive trees (Acebuche) are wide spread and numerous here.
The natural elements like wind and rain has formed the karst in bizarre formations.
We are constantly on the look out for some way signs.
The trail is like a labyrinth amongst the rocks and the dense vegetation.
A blooming dwarf palm.
As far as the eye can see... untamed nature.
Within this wilderness we find a clearing where someone once gathered these rocks.
We are totally in awe!
This magnificent twisted tree looks very old!
Ahead of us an ideal spot for a picnic.
Not bad, sitting here on a rock bench under an ancient wild olive tree.
At times the path is easy to follow.
But we soon we found ourselves lost amongst the shrub again.
The orangey marks on the rocks is some kind of dried up moss.
With care we climb over the rocks onwards.
Totally majestic!
Carefully we scamper across the rocks.
Like a statue reaching up to the sky!
Seemingly a lone giant, surveying his kingdom!
We are now in the heart of the karstic plateau.
A manmade sign, a welcome mark.
Over the years, rainwater has cut deep crevasses into the limestone.
We look up, in awe!
Suddenly, we stand in front of a gateway.
Intrigued to see what lays beyond!
We step into an area which looks like a secret hide away.
In one corner, something which looks like a fire place.
An high above......
A window to the sky! Incredible!
This was certainly another highlight.
Quite amazing to find a plant, which looks like a fig tree growing out of the rock.
We have to leave this unique place,
and try to find our way back.
Someone left a fire place here.
This terrain looks like a jungle of rocks and shrubs.
We left our bag by the path and climbed up the rock,
to a fantastic view from up there.
To the right ,the Sierra Bermeja and los Reales,
in the center Sierra Crestellina.
The Sierra Bermeja to the left,
and to the east the Mediterranean sea.
A close up of the Sierra Bermeja and Los Reales.
What an amazing panorama!!
This rock formation looked familiar,
it was where we came up.
Some more wild flowers we saw on the way.
On our drive back to the coast we enjoy the panoramic views over the vineyards of Manilva and the crimson mountains of the Sierra Bermejas in the distance.
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